Mediating mezcal: magic and meaning in an ancient modern product

This empirical essay explores the history, cultural significance, and contemporary challenges of mezcal production in Oaxaca, Mexico. This work was informed by a week-long field visit (and the months of preparation that went into it) in Oaxaca, wherein we soaked up the brights colors and flavors of the ruta del mezcal and sought out the wisdom of mezcaleros/as, mezcal researchers, and other local actors and advocates across the mezcal industry via interviews, site visits, and other participant observation activities. We asked questions about the environmental components, the economics, and the social (equity) context – the sustainability – of production and distribution of this ancient, modern product. Based on insights we gained in the field, in this essay, we emphasize the importance of natural resources, the significance of cultural heritage, and the gravity of economic transitions in the region. We highlight the environmental implications (e.g. deforestation, water pollution) of mezcal’s growing popularity and increasing production. Ultimately, we outline proposed pathways forward, as offered by those we encountered, including encouraging cooperatives, improving waste management, and promoting biodiversity. In sum, the paper underscores the need to balance economic growth with environmental conservation and social equity, ensuring the preservation of mezcal's cultural and ecological legacy.