Xiaohan Wu, Wenxiang Zhang, Bohao Jin, Siyu Chen, Hong Shen
Phytol, an acyclic diterpene alcohol and a key lipophilic side-chain moiety of chlorophyll, is widely distributed in nature. It exhibits potent antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, analgesic and broad-spectrum antibacterial activities. Notably, phytol can also effectively inhibit melanin production, repair the skin barrier, and exert profound anti-aging effects, making it a highly promising ingredient for daily skincare with substantial industrial application value. The skincare benefits of phytol are primarily achieved by constructing a multi-dimensional regulatory network involving defense, modulation and repair. Compared to conventional retinol-based skincare ingredients, phytol exhibits superior biocompatibility, mild irritation, and remarkable safety advantages. Nevertheless, its application is hindered by inherent limitations, including strong hydrophobicity, spontaneous aggregation tendency, and poor photothermal stability. These drawbacks severely restrict its dispersibility, storage stability and percutaneous bioavailability in aqueous cosmetic formulations. To address these deficiencies, nanodrug delivery systems (NDDS), such as liposomes, nanoemulsions, solid lipid nanoparticles and PLGA nanoparticles, have been widely employed. These nanocarriers can penetrate the skin barrier via the size effect, enabling targeted skin delivery and long-term controlled release of phytol. This review systematically summarizes the biological sources and metabolic fate of phytol, as well as its multi-mechanistic pharmacological effects on the skin. Furthermore, we outline the current application status and industrial development trends of phytol in mainstream cosmetics worldwide. This work aims to provide theoretical basis and forward-looking references for the development of high-efficiency, safe and stable phytol-derived skincare raw materials and topical formulations. Highlights: (1) Phytol, a natural acyclic diterpene alcohol, exerts multi-dimensional skincare effects including antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, whitening, anti-aging, and skin barrier repair activities via a defense-modulation-repair regulatory network. (2) Phytol may act as a mild, non-irritating functional alternative to retinoids, targeting PPAR/RXR pathways and avoiding TRPV1-mediated irritation, making it suitable for sensitive skin. (3) Poor water solubility and instability hinder phytol's translation; nanodelivery systems effectively improve solubility, permeability, and sustained release.